Look inside a felt cowboy hat and you will often find a number followed by an X. It is one of the most talked-about details in Western hats, and one of the most misunderstood.
What the X rating is
The X rating is a quality grade set by each hat maker. Within one brand, a higher number generally means a finer, denser felt, often with more beaver fur in the blend. There is no industry-wide standard, though, so a 10X from one maker is not the same as a 10X from another.
Compare X ratings within a brand, not across brands. When you are choosing between makers, ask what the felt is made of instead.
Wool, rabbit and beaver
- Wool felt is the most affordable. It is heavier and less water resistant, and tends to lose its shape sooner.
- Rabbit fur felt is a big step up in feel and durability, and is common in mid-range hats.
- Beaver fur felt is prized for being dense, smooth and water resistant, and for holding a shape well. Blends mix beaver with rabbit or other fur.
Why it matters for care
Finer felts generally stand up better to rain, reshaping and years of wear, which is part of why they are worth looking after. Whatever your hat is made of, the everyday care basics are the same.
Further reading
- Decoding the X Factor Hat Rating · Bernard Hats
- What Do X Ratings Mean in Felt Cowboy Hats? · North 40
- The Difference Between Rabbit and Beaver Fur Felt Hats · Outback Traders
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